In their original form, flips consisted of ale, rum, and molasses heated in cast iron and stirred with a smoldering poker pulled straight from the hearth. The extreme heat made the liquid froth, or “flip,” and a new fireside favorite was born. But like many cocktails, flips have evolved over the centuries, and the version we drink today stems from Colonial America. Served by the barrel in local taverns, it has been suggested that bartenders during this era added eggs and cream to the sweetened drink both to fortify it and to mask the flavor of low-quality alcohol. Whether that is true or not, the addition was a stroke of genius that lends flips the silky texture and rich mouthfeel that make them so distinctive.

The recipe was finally standardized and recorded by legendary bartender Jerry “The Professor” Thomas in 1862 in his groundbreaking book Bar-Tender’s Guide. In his version, flips were pared down to a few essential ingredients and often served cold. Though there are many variations, all flip recipes contain liquor, egg, and sugar. The mixture is then shaken vigorously with ice and strained before being garnished with a spice, often nutmeg. The consistency of a flip is that of a thin creamy custard, despite them containing no dairy.

Much of the joy of crafting flips comes from exploration and practice. Flips lend themselves to experimentation, which makes them an ideal cocktail for casual mixologists as you hone your craft and put your own spin on classics. While flips may seem complex at first, there are rich rewards for cocktail enthusiasts who muster up the pioneering spirit of their bartending forebears and forge ahead. Incorporating a raw egg into a cocktail might feel intimidating–maybe even a little dangerous–but trust us when we say that it is transformative. Though cocktails containing eggs–think flips, fizzes, and sours–may cause some hesitation, the risk posed by raw egg mixed in a cocktail is low. Like eggnog, Hollandaise sauce, or Caesar salad dressing, flips pose minimal risk when they are made with refrigerated, pasteurized eggs.

Flips also appeal to a wide range of palates because they can be made using many different types of liquor or fortified wine. Brandy and sherry are both widely used in flips, though spiced rum, whiskey, gin, and even tequila emulsify beautifully with egg and demerara sugar. Bitters provide added depth to flips, and citrus can be used for a bright, lively garnish. The combination of sweetness and spice can make flips–a cousin of eggnog and Hot Toddies–a popular holiday libation. But though they are an excellent source of holiday cheer, flips can truly be enjoyed year round.

Crafting a flip is an exercise in balancing liquor, sweetness, and fat to create a cocktail that is a decadent marriage of all three. Spirits aged in oak offer a particular richness to the drink, which means whiskey variations are especially lovely. Cinnamon infused bourbon brings an intriguing heat to the cocktail, which should be topped with a grate or two of nutmeg. If you’re in the mood for something summery, however, we recommend a Whiskey Sour, or if you’d like to try making something a little more complex, give the Gin Fizz a try. Cheers!